How We Cut Our Gemstones by Hand
Most gemstones are cut to be perfect. At Rigby Leigh, ours are cut to be true.
That distinction lies at the heart of everything we do. In a jewelry industry where uniformity and flawlessness are the standard, we’ve chosen a different path—one that celebrates the natural shape, history, and beauty of every stone.
For us, imperfection isn’t something to hide. It’s the soul of the gem, and the story we want to tell.
Our gemstone cutting process reflects Rigby Leigh’s broader philosophy: sustainability, artistry, and ethics. By cutting each stone by hand here in Brooklyn, we can honor where it came from, ensure complete transparency, and create jewelry that feels alive with authenticity.
What Is Gemstone Cutting?
Gemstone cutting, at its simplest, is the process of shaping a rough crystal into something wearable and luminous. Traditionally, this means cutting away parts of the stone to maximize brilliance, symmetry, and market value.
There are countless styles of gemstone cuts—brilliant cuts designed to maximize sparkle, step cuts that emphasize clean geometry, and cabochons with smooth, domed surfaces. In the conventional jewelry world, these cuts are designed to conform gemstones to a perfect standard.
But while these cuts have their beauty, they also tend to erase much of a stone’s natural character. At Rigby Leigh, our cutting process is about balance—bringing out light and color while preserving the story written inside the stone itself.
Learn more gemstone cutting terms here.
Why Most Gemstones Are Cut Overseas
The global gemstone industry is structured around efficiency and cost. Rough stones are mined in one part of the world, shipped to another, and often cut in large overseas workshops where cheap labor and standardized techniques dominate.
This system prioritizes speed and uniformity over artistry. Workers are underpaid, environmental practices are rarely transparent, and stones are forced into predetermined shapes designed to meet commercial demand.
For us, this raised an important question: If jewelry is meant to symbolize something deeply personal, why should the process behind it be so impersonal?
That’s why we decided to do things differently. We cut our own gemstones by hand, right here in Brooklyn, using stones we’ve sourced directly from Montana mines that prioritize ethical practices.
How We Cut Our Gemstones at Rigby Leigh
Every gemstone we cut begins as a piece of rough sapphire from Montana. Each one has its own quirks, like color zoning, inclusions, asymmetrical edges, that make it unique. Rather than cutting these away, we see them as features worth highlighting.
Here’s how our process unfolds:
-
Assessing the Rough Stone
We begin by studying the natural form of the sapphire, turning it in the light, and understanding its internal patterns. Every line, crack, and color shift helps us decide how little intervention is needed. -
Planning Minimal Cuts
Instead of forcing a stone into a standard template, we plan cuts that will emphasize what’s already there. The goal is to reveal, not erase. -
Faceting with Care
Using vintage faceting equipment, we carefully shape the stone’s surface. Each facet is added with precision, but we stop long before the stone loses its individuality. -
Polishing with Intention
The final polish brings the stone to life, not as a flawless copy of another gem, but as a one-of-a-kind creation.
By keeping our process hands-on and local, we ensure every Rigby Leigh gemstone is as individual as the person who wears it.
Explore our Montana Sapphires Collection →
Why It Matters
Our refusal to chase perfection isn’t just a creative choice, it’s an ethical one.
Perfection often means waste. Chasing symmetry requires cutting away large portions of the stone, discarding its natural form in favor of uniform brilliance. By preserving the original character, we reduce waste, respect the material, and create gemstones that look and feel grounded in nature.
This approach also ties directly into our other practices: using recycled gold, crafting one-of-a-kind rings, and making sure that every piece reflects authenticity rather than mass-production.
When you wear one of our rings, you’re not just wearing jewelry, you’re wearing a piece of the earth, kept as true to its origin as possible.
What Makes Montana Sapphires So Special
We fell in love with Montana sapphires for many reasons. They’re ethically mined in the United States, which means traceability and higher environmental standards than most global mining operations. They also happen to be breathtakingly beautiful.
Montana sapphires offer a natural color palette unlike any other: vibrant blues, soft greens, lavender hues, even peachy pastels. Their subtle variations pair perfectly with our organic, wood-cast gold rings, creating pieces that feel timeless yet deeply personal.
Unlike lab-grown sapphires or overseas-cut stones, Montana sapphires carry a sense of place and story. They belong to the American landscape, and when set in our natural-textured gold, they embody the meeting of earth, craft, and meaning.
See our Montana Sapphires Collection →
What to Expect with a Rigby Leigh Stone
When you choose a Rigby Leigh stone, you’re not just buying a gemstone, you’re beginning a collaboration.
We guide each customer through a process of discovery: exploring our collection of hand-cut sapphires, listening to what resonates with them, and designing a ring that reflects both the stone and their story.
No two stones are alike, and no two rings are alike. That’s the beauty of it. Each piece carries the mark of individuality—your individuality—woven together with our craftsmanship.
FAQ: Cutting Gemstones
What is the process of gem cutting?
Gem cutting is the art of shaping and polishing a raw stone to bring out its color and light. When you ask what the process of gem cutting involves, it’s usually a long series of steps designed to produce a perfect shape. Our approach is different. We slow down, study the rough, and follow its natural lines instead of forcing it into something it was never meant to be.
What is the best way to cut gemstones?
The best way to cut gemstones depends on what you value. If you want uniform sparkle, traditional cutting methods will get you there. If you want truth, depth, and a stone that still feels connected to its origin, the best way is to make only the cuts needed and keep the rest of the story intact.
What is the best cut for a gemstone?
There’s no single “best” cut. For us, the best cut is the one that tells the stone’s story and reveals its beauty without erasing its character.
At Rigby Leigh, gemstone cutting is more than a technique. It’s a philosophy: to respect nature, to honor individuality, and to create jewelry that feels alive with meaning.
Every stone we cut by hand is a reminder that beauty doesn’t come from perfection, it comes from truth.
If you’re ready to find a stone that speaks to you, explore our collection or get in touch to begin designing your custom piece.
